{"id":399,"date":"2022-05-08T22:55:01","date_gmt":"2022-05-08T21:55:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mahattat.ma\/bs-where-to-experience-the-dutch-golden-age-in-amsterdam\/"},"modified":"2022-05-08T22:55:01","modified_gmt":"2022-05-08T21:55:01","slug":"bs-where-to-experience-the-dutch-golden-age-in-amsterdam","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mahattat.ma\/?p=399","title":{"rendered":"Where to experience the Dutch Golden Age in Amsterdam"},"content":{"rendered":"

There are many ways to get to Montenegro\u2019s\u00a0Adriatic Coast, my taxi driver assured me, raising his voice over a chorus of horns that angrily saluted his laissez-faire attitude toward lane use during morning rush-hour traffic in\u00a0Belgrade. \u2018But it makes no sense to take the train.\u2019 He weaved through less aggressive vehicles like a skier clearing slalom gates. A cold, grey autumn rain began to fall harder, drops beading down my window, as the main railway station came into view.<\/p>\n

\u2018Let me take you to the airport,\u2019 he sounded genuinely concerned. \u2018You will be in the sea and in the sun and with a beer in half an hour. This thing you are doing, it will take all day \u2026 and into the night.\u2019 He finally relented as we pulled up to the curb: \u2018At least buy water, sandwiches, and toilet paper.\u2019<\/p>\n

The cabbie left me in front of the crenellated railway station, a faded Habsburg-yellow throwback opened in 1884. He was already speeding off to advise another tourist before I could throw my bag over my shoulder. Inside, I found the ticket office. The woman behind the glass informed me that the trip from Belgrade, Serbia, to\u00a0Bar, Montenegro \u2013 on the Adriatic edge of the Balkan Peninsula \u2013 takes 12 hours. It costs 21 euros (there would be an additional three-euro charge for a seat reservation). \u2018Yes, there is a bakery nearby,\u2019 she said and pointed. \u2018It is behind you. The shop for water and tissues is next to it.\u2019 She slid the window closed, stood, picked up her pack of cigarettes, and disappeared.<\/p>\n\t

\n\n\t\t
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You have to be the best of whatever you are, but successful, cool actresses come in all shapes and sizes.<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tJessica Alba\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tAmerican Actress<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/blockquote>\n\n

That sense of old-world drama would serve me well, I would soon learn, along this route. On the outskirts of the Serbian capital \u2013 as I settled into my seat in a weathered, six-person cabin \u2013 we passed Top\u010dider Station, where the hulking locomotives from Yugoslav leader Marshal Tito\u2019s famous Blue Train are stored. The behemoths sat dishevelled, graffitied, but still regal and almost lifelike, wishing me a safe passage to the outer lands. Within an hour, the tangle of urban metal and concrete unravelled, and the countryside spread out in all directions with the urgency of a jailbreak. The sun came out as wet, emerald-green hummocks began to play leapfrog across the vista, rolling until they dove out of sight over the horizon.<\/p>\n

Though the Belgrade\u2013Bar line doesn\u2019t have a sexy moniker (like the Royal Scotsman or Rocky Mountaineer), the Yugoslav Flyer would be appropriate. When construction began on the 476km railway in 1951, the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia was in its infancy: a tenuous post-WWII cadre of states on the Balkan Peninsula\u2019s western half. By the time the route opened in 1976 \u2013 complete with 254 tunnels and 234 bridges winding down from the Pannonian Plain to the island-studded Adriatic Sea \u2013 the country had implanted itself as a geopolitical force and a synapse between the West and the Soviet Union.<\/p>\n

Yugoslavia has since splintered into seven nations. The railway, thankfully, endures, connecting\u00a0Serbia\u00a0to\u00a0Montenegro\u00a0with a brief blip across\u00a0Bosnia & Hercegovina\u2019s eastern border. But the line\u2019s existence represents more than just a continued, now international, transport option. These tracks\u00a0are<\/em>\u00a0the Balkans \u2013 and a lifeline to a swath of land where cultures have intertwined since before history. Here, the train takes adventurers across vistas crisscrossed by Greeks and Illyrians, as well as the Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empires. Along the way, visitors have a literal window onto a living museum frozen in time.<\/p>\n

Those natural exhibits were on full display as we rumbled through the foothills of the Dinaric Alps in the southwestern corner of Serbia. When we crossed the border into Montenegro, the museum\u2019s lineup of canvases \u2013 pristine panoramas and landscapes \u2013 changed again. The Western Balkans\u2019 rotating collection now included towering mountains and canyons that engulfed us whole.<\/p>\n

\u2018I had no idea what to expect,\u2019 said Colin Smith, a fellow passenger and UK native. Outside the window, an old couple leaned against pitchforks next to haystacks. Behind them, vegetable gardens and a small-but-dense orchard of plum trees surrounded a stone farmhouse. \u2018But I am so surprised by the beauty: the mountains, steep ravines and endless drops.\u2019<\/p>\n

Before I went to sleep that night, I remembered my taxi driver: \u2018But it makes no sense to take the train.\u2019 Lying in bed, I could hear the sea washing onto the shore outside my rented apartment\u2019s window. If I ever saw him again, I would make sure to tell the cabbie he was right: a flight would have been much faster and easier, and more sterile.<\/p>\n

Book tickets (and separate necessary reservations) at the station a day in advance. There are 1st- and 2nd-class options. Night-train passengers can choose between couchettes or sleepers (with two or three beds). A one-way ticket (from Belgrade) costs 21 euros; a reservation is necessary and costs an additional three euros. Second-class couchettes on night trains cost an additional six euros. A bed in a three-bed sleeper is 15 euros; a bed in a two-bed sleeper is 20 euros.<\/p>\n

The Belgrade\u2013Bar railway line runs twice per day, in both directions. From Belgrade, the train departs at 9:10am and at 9:10pm; the trip takes 12 hour.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

There are many ways to get to Montenegro\u00a0Adriatic Coast, my taxi driver assured me, raising his voice over a chorus of horns that angrily saluted his laissez-faire attitude toward lane use during morning rush-hour traffic in\u00a0Belgrade. \u2018But it makes no sense to take the train.\u2019 He weaved through less aggressive vehicles like a skier clearing slalom gates. A cold, grey autumn rain began to fall harder, drops beading down my window, as the main railway station came into view.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":308,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[92],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-399","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-92"],"yoast_head":"\nWhere to experience the Dutch Golden Age in Amsterdam - Mahattat | \u0645\u062d\u0637\u0627\u062a<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/mahattat.ma\/?p=399\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ar_AR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Where to experience the Dutch Golden Age in Amsterdam - Mahattat | \u0645\u062d\u0637\u0627\u062a\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"There are many ways to get to Montenegro\u00a0Adriatic Coast, my taxi driver assured me, raising his voice over a chorus of horns that angrily saluted his laissez-faire attitude toward lane use during morning rush-hour traffic in\u00a0Belgrade. \u2018But it makes no sense to take the train.\u2019 He weaved through less aggressive vehicles like a skier clearing slalom gates. 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